Piccalilli began when South Asian pickles (like achar) met with British colonizers in the eighteenth century, hence its heavy reliance on mustard and turmeric. Time and immigration have continued the flavor journey of this relish. Now, beyond the British style, there are regional variations from America as well as a spicy Surinamese version.
In order to keep the thick, mustardy sauce that coats the vegetables in traditionally made piccalillis, this fermented version is made in two steps. The first is the primary fermentation, and the second is a short secondary fermentation after the sauce has been added, to allow the flavors to meld. Makes about 1 quart.
ingredients
For the Ferment:
1 small cauliflower, cut into small florets with stems diced
4 pickling cucumbers, gherkins, or small Persian cucumbers, deseeded if seeds have developed, diced
8 ounces (1 1/2 cups) pearl onions, trimmed, peeled, and quartered
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1 tablespoon salt
For the Roux Sauce:
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
3 to 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour or gluten-free flour
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1 to 2 teaspoons ground mustard
1 to 2 tablespoons of your favorite sweetener (optional)
instructions
1. Combine the cauliflower, cucumbers, onions, and capers in a large bowl. Sprinkle with the salt and massage everything together. Liquid will start to form.
2. Spoon the mixture into a quart jar, packing down the ingredients and releasing air pockets as you fill the jar. Make sure to include any brine left behind in the bowl. Press a ziplock bag against the surface of the mixture, fill the bag with water to use as a weight, and close the bag. Alternatively, screw a lid tightly on the jar. Put it in a corner of the kitchen to cure. If the lid starts to bulge, simply open the lid for a moment to “burp” the ferment.
3. Allow to ferment for about 5 days. Usually you will know it is ready when the colors of the ferment have become muted, and you might see the cloudiness develop in the brine. There is a pleasing acidic smell to the ferment. When you try it, it should taste pickle-y and may also have a bit of effervescent zing. Allow it to ferment longer for more sourness and punch.
4. When it is ready, drain the ferment in a sieve or colander set over a bowl. Retain the brine. Transfer the vegetables into a medium bowl and set aside. It’s time to make the roux.
5. To make the roux, melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth. Add the reserved brine and allow to cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until thickened.
6. Whisk in the turmeric and mustard and the sweetener, if using. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the sauce to cool to body temperature. (It must be under 100°F to avoid damaging the probiotics in the ferment.)
7. Add the sauce to the vegetables and toss to thoroughly coat. Transfer the mixture into a quart jar, place the lid, and tighten. Allow to ferment for another 1 or 2 days, until the flavors have melded.
Stored in an airtight jar in the fridge, your piccalilli will keep for 1 to 2 months.